For people who enjoy discovering heritage sites off beaten tracks , the ‘golden-triangle of heritage’ close to Gwalior is a visual treat. It comprises three historic sites resurrected remnants of6th-9th century relics.
Situated 30 kms north of Gwalior, these three sites, The Bateshwar temples, The fortess of Garhi-Padaavli & The Mitawli temple form an invaluable trio for history students and tourists alike.
Our journey began at around 0930 hours on a pleasant, partially cloudy monsoon day. We took NH3, turned towards Delhi. A few kilometers ahead we left the highway and let the AH 47/NH3and smaller unwinding country roads lead us to Shanichara temple, another historic site of importance and landmark on the road to the famed trio.
I must admit the well kept road sans pot holes(inspite of ongoing monsoons) were a welcome surprise. Rice fields, tiny knolls and lush greenery made for a spectacular view and peaceful journey. The dusty roads within tiny villages were slightly below average but that was hardly a dampener given the exotic sites that lay ahead.
We happened to skip the Bateswar temples initially, owing to the inconspicuous approach road and tiny hoarding announcing their presence and also to the majestic fortress of Padavli that beckoned us from afar.
PADAAVALI
This enormous tall fortress was built by the Jat Ranas of Gohad in the 19th century around the remnants of the ancient temple of padavli dedicated to Lord Shiva. Archeological studies suggest the Padaavli temple was built on a raised platform close to the10th century. The temple was obliterated.
We marvelled at how the solid stone platform was built with such precision in those times. Only the intricately carved mukhamandapa- entrance stands erect till date. The intricate carvings depict episodes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Krishna leela and Dashavatara in stone, successive layers of these stories in stone were placed below the other in the inner walls of the dome of the main entrance.
The Ranas made use of the remnants of the old temple to fortify the structure. It then housed primitive artillery and shells of the 19th century Rana army. The ASI guide seemed to know the history of the temples and the significance of the carvings. It was heartening to know that the ASI has been working on the restoration of this site at regular intervals. The presence of security guards and the guide’s justification for it did prove t.he area unsafe for relics…..
BATESARA OR BATESHWAR
We were tempted to proceed to Mitawali but decided to go 50 meters back and check out the dusty path we left unexplored earlier. As we dove down the what seemed like a little used path,another work of art in stone from the bygone era stood before us. A rectangular complex built on a raised platform of stone blocks, identical in shape. The finesse was extraordinary , every edge of stone coincided forming a perfect straight line. Even this sight could not hold our interest for long though because as we looked ahead, we were awestruck by the splendid sight that came up. Within a cosy cove of shrubbery and green knolls, a tiny low lying valley held a cluster of 6th century temples! Numerous manadapas stood along side each other in parallel line formation.
The temples too were well encased within a compound wall built by the ASI. Yet again we felt thankful that the ASI had taken over this spot and taken pains to resurrect it. The effort spoke for itself. Walking into this amazing labyrinth , we quizzed the caretaker, who turned out to be the ASI appointed ‘supervisor’( as he called himself) of the place. The following facts tumbled out from him and the security in-charge of the place.
1. These are remnants of 6th-9th century temples of the Pratihara period when temple art was still in initial stages, this fact is attributed to the flat ceilings of a few temples of the cluster.The others have curvilinear shikharas over the sanctums.
2. The ASI discovered this place( an intresting tale, I shall narrate later)* when most of he temples were buried under 6-7 feet of mud. The temples having been built on a low lying area, got buried below loose earth owing to tectonic disturbances.
3. The main characteristic features are two stepped tanks built around naturally occurring water bodies at the base of this hill.
4. As the excavation progressed fully ans partially buried temples, gateways,amlakas and brahminical icons all masonry in stone lay strewn around.
5. The painstakingly slow work of restructuring the temples and resurrecting them began in 2005 and still continues. As work progressed the partially buried temple bases retained their original color while the shikharas are many shades darker due to exposure to the sun, wind and monsoon over the years.
6. These temples too have shiv-lings in their sanctorums and ornately carved walls. In ancient times these huge slabs of stone carvings were held in place by iron clamps which corroded and weathered away. The present day restoration has replaced the iron with steel clamps while trying to incorporate the original mix of naturally occurring sandstone and herbs in the vicinity to hold the non-clamped slabs together.
7. After having been identified and resurrected the main temple draws huge crowds of shiv- bhakts on the occasion of Shiv ratri. How do they deal with the crowd and protect against pilferage? The security in-charge a former dacoit from the ill famed Chambal gangs swears by his loyalty for these temples of lord Shiva. He claims having rescued many an ASI officers from the clutches of former Chambal dacoits who have now turned modern day extortionists. We said in lighter vein that we ourselves were tempted to pick up a small piece of carved rock. His menacing look and cold blooded response of,” jaa nahi payenge aise karke” was enough for us to reassure him quickly of our joke and harmlessness.
MITAWALI
L eaving Bateswara temples we proceeded towards the famous MItawali temple. A dusty bumpy pot hole ridden stretch of 2-3 kms lead us to the base of this tiny cliff covered with greenery. The climb up the hill led us to ‘poetry in stone part-II’
1. The hills flat top held a circular ring shaped stone structure built on a raised stone platform with a sanctum in its centre. The area within the ring can easily accommodate 70-100 people at a time.
2. The ring comprised of 64 identical rooms approximately 3 feet by 3 feet in size, each dedicated to a yogini-forms dedicated to Lord Shiva but associated with tantric practices.
3. The structure is said to have inspired the ring shaped architecture of our Parliament, but there are no records of the British having visited this place.
4. Though devoid of a proper guide the place did get its share of ASI attention , when steps to the top of the hill were re-built in stone. The view from the top is breathtaking.
5. We were surprised at how these mammoth slabs of stone were lugged up the hill In those ancient times.
*Bateswar- The Supervisor at the Bateswar site claims, that the site was excavated by a senior archeologist of the ASI Mr. KK Mohammad who later rose to head the branch. It is believed that Lord Shive himself appeaed in Mr. Mohammad’s dreams guiding him to the place.
The security guard and former dacoit says he managed to prevent friction between old time dacoits and ASI personnel working on the project. The Shiv-linga has special powers he is ready to swear by.
